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When curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.